Vale la pena / Worth It

It is—it’s worth it, the loss and the gain experience renders. Um, quite the deficient sentence that is, subjectivity inferred, as worth careens inside each of us, regenerating meaning day to day, moment to moment, every second even. What I mean is these experiences are meaningful enough to us that we keep investing time and money and energy to make these trips happen. These doings, these goings, are components of our family ethos. I could do without the ants though, you know? Just this second, I felt a tender dread swell under my eyes, recalling my human brokenness and assenting to the inquest of shame, if only for a moment. See, I cannot actually attain my hopes for myself, for my children, for my marriage, for my friendships, for my God—not without great and perpetual loss. I’m not talking goals: hope. A bit dreary for someone sitting in the blinding sun, dodging winter floods, yes? No, it’s just the sun and the ocean and the why of being here allow me to sit with these emotions for shorter and longer moments and to then stand up again and make my kid a tortilla roll, pour myself a glass of mezcal even, squeezing in half a lime—salt, if I want.

Not stressed yet.

Releasing hours-old baby sea turtles had me spinning thoughts about living every moment while dying every second. Most days it seems I live by hours, dying faster than I can count heartbeats or brush off sand from Sylvan’s face. I’m glad we did it and I’m glad the seagulls were there and I’m glad we watched as some of the little ones were snatched from the sand or out of the water, carried off in beaks made to do such things. I’m sad human impact on this world is what it is yesterday, today, and I weep for tomorrow because it seems insurmountable, this gross tourbillon of ours. At the same time, in the same town, one man breaks open the soft dented shell of a turtle egg, a fast bite, while another man plants one mangrove tree at a time, hoping the crocodiles and snakes will allow him this work. Both are intentional, both cultural, and only one is worth it. These things rise with such clarity, having to do with the hearts and compulsions of others. And then there’s me and my insides, demanding tenderness and grace and new mercies every turn of my head, every harsh tone aimed at my children, every iniquity. Más para mí, I continue in my callowness—until I get where I’ve gotten more than many times, and I tell the truth about myself, to myself, to a seamless God, and to those holding pieces of my spirit. I beg mercy for me just as much as for those baby sea turtles and, yeah, those seagulls too.

While living
I left for, like, two minutes.

Days here are like this: Around 2:30 a.m. about 15 roosters start crowing (or something somewhat similar), 27 dogs begin yelping and barking, and every dang bird sings their own song. So by 6:00, when Sylvan wakes all the way up and starts asking for some food item we can’t possible find here, I’m up too. I suppose I haven’t mentioned the change in our, um, schedule. Well, about a week back Raines decided he was done with his Spanish class through the surf school. It was less of a previously discussed decision and more of a run-out-of-the-school-and-down-the-sidewalk sort of decision. Surfing was all he needed, he said, and he already knew everything his teacher was telling him, so I was going to buy him a surf board—period. Oh. Okay. Obviously I did all these things immediately to appease the eight-year-old psyche who wants Nutella-only tortilla rolls on the regular. And somebody please remind me when we get back that I owe him an iPhone or one thousand dollars—it might slip my damn mind, tired and all. Anyway (I’m not dissociating, just refocusing), the third day after he made his escape, he decided to talk with his teacher, and though I haven’t a clue what was said, they both came out smiling and she kissed me on the cheek while saying something about how precious children are. Oy…uh, and just when I wanted to put him in a box and then put that box in another box, and so on. After asking around for two more days, I finally found Marta, and we love her! She listens and cares and smiles always and wears beautiful dresses her mother makes her out of African fabrics and lives in a third-floor open-air apartment I’m sure I’ve seen in a dream somewhere and actually knows how to teach. If I get there five minutes early, Raines asks for his five minutes. Then after Spanish with Marta, I scoop him up and drive him to meet his surf instructor, David Rutherford, who is pretty much perfect for Raines. And as I’ve never heard David say “Brah” before, I’m not going to blame him for having to listen to that shit all afternoon, every time he addresses his four-year-old selkie-child brother. Eventually I’ll get some surfing photos up. Apparently he’s really doing well. And now, how to say “You’reamazingsitdownbehumble,” and only with my eyes?

So what if you can’t actually see their faces. Obviously, they’re surfers.

At this point in my glass of wine, the crocodiles (we’re going back!) will need to wait for the next post. I feel many strange and wonderful things when approaching marine biology, even just from the shore or the captivity of a boat. I know I could sit and stare at an alligator or crocodile doing pretty close to nothing for hours, and like it. I know this because I’ve done it, and even without any specific data collecting going on. It’s weird and it’s marvelous to love in holy fear. More soon.

La Punta sunset.
Also back at home…our favorite Triceratops was feeling depressed.
Meanwhile, back home in Tennessee: Eeeeek!
Our guide, Elián, took this photo for me so the crocodile would eat him first and then have to go five feet farther to eat me.
Riding off into the sunset with some very annoyed horses.

Así lo empezamos / And So We Begin

Nearly two weeks in and this uneven tan on my left shoulder is coming along perfectly. I was thinking I could spend my 8:30s-10:30s at night reading and writing a bit. But, well, most of these nights I close my eyes just moments after my children calm themselves to sleep (Is this really what they do?). I have had the occasional glass of wine in the dark. Perhaps next week Islas en el golfo and The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle will subsume themselves as necessities, or even fates.

Little man had anger covering up all his tears. Saying goodbye to the Papa we love is hard.
There will never be another Tío Roddy. Saying goodbye through sound-proof glass at BNA.
Just a gulf away.

We are down at the bottom of Mexico, staring out at a Pacific edge, in an investment to slow down to go faster. Sometimes floating through our days on these yearly trips is appropriate, but this one has a few more pounds of structure included—for me, for them, for us. Raines is going to Oasis Spanish & Surf School during the week, where he’s already up on his own out there with the sea turtles (thinking positively, watching from the sand). Sylvan spends his days at Explora, an Agile Learning Center here in Puerto Escondido (kids are people, okay?). The city is a bit more spread out than I expected, so now we have a scooter that will hopefully turn into an Xterra in the next few days. Both boys seem more than alright, except after three miles of walking and/or finding more sand in their shorts always. Thanks to Primo West, we’re on book three of his Geronimo Stilton series (So when I said I haven’t been reading, what I meant was…I’m not the one choosing the book.). I got Sylvan this Batman hat that I keep trying to steal and he keeps taking back. We eat ice cream at least once a day—all this exercise we’re getting, it’s basically required. Yesterday Sylvan accidentally ordered Oreo instead of mint chocolate, so we had to get another one to smooth out the afternoon. Judge us, we lovingly care not.

Daily ice cream spot
Helado del día
Batman hat stolen for the moment. He took it back and I had to get a bright green hat that is only very…functional.

I would like to mention a few things we’ve survived so far. First, I’d like to delete the Mexico City layover from my memory. I really don’t want to learn anything from it except perhaps that we can’t, in fact, delete terrible airport experiences. And it wasn’t so awful really, we even got donuts. Anyway, our final one-hour flight said “On Time” for three hours after the scheduled departure time, so we ended up dragging ourselves and our stuff into our Puerto Escondido bed around 1:00 a.m. Here! Our place here at Casa Mangos is pretty great, super clean, and quiet—apart from the delightful screeches of my two children. No drama here, until I decide to shower off the grit and sand the boys keep collecting. It has been said I throw my children to the wolves. I didn’t dispute the assertion, but rather the sharp-toned arrow on which it was thrown. This is true and intentional here as well, I suppose, but with the slight twist of crocodiles, sharks, and rocks (ask the surfers at La Punta). It’s Raines, mostly, who’s been doing all the extreme surviving. He’s surfing real waves every day. In the real ocean. Where all those very real creatures live and rule. And when we went to the bioluminescence lagoon, he jumped out of the boat and into the water. All the while, I’m in the boat with a sleeping Sylvan. He peed on my lap while his brother was swimming in pitch-black waters (save the seconds of bioluminescence), where the crocodiles love to hang out. I was fine, really, and figured the giant crocodile who lives there would probably chomp one of the other crazies who jumped in before they got to my skinny little child. Talk about delighting in my children—it’s in the experimental stage at this point, but I think it’s working. Oh, and when we went on the dolphin search and saw hundreds of them, Raines jumped out of the boat in the middle of the fucking ocean and swam around. He asked me to come, too, and I responded with quiet murmurs and then articulated something like, “Um, I’m actually scared and I have you’re brother, so…but you can do it!” See, he was trying to listen to the dolphins under water. So much like Aaron, once motivation is accessed and internalized, energy seems to be hasta el infinito. By the way, Sylvan has also survived a few bites from babies at his school and at least three sidewalk wipeouts. Almost forgot to mention the taekwondo classes the boys took—once. Sylvan said he wanted only karate or jiu jitsu (anything other than taekwondo, it would seem) and Raines said never again. So we’re done with that for now, I believe.

Just before he jumped into the darkness! Bioluminescence is pretty rad, btw. Mainly my kid though.
My camera flash reveals nothing extra horrible in the waters. Also, bioluminescence does not show up on photos, I guess.
Sylvan at Explora.
Sylvan con un gato dormido.

I’ll stop soon, for today, and then I’ll try to stay a leetle more up to date on our travels here. But before I go now, and just as I finish this glass of mezcal, here’s what I’m thinking on and suffering with as of late: micro– and macro-failing as a parent (yes, I made this up, but it’s working for me in this second so I need to leave it for now) and manufacturing an answer from God about all this good shit inside me and why the fuck and for what purpose is it there(¿¡?!). I won’t be getting any answers on the latter until I throw my spirit up on a sandy Puerto Escondido sidewalk and surrender, give up, rendirme, re-remember that managing God is, damnit, unmanageable. And as for the mothering-end of things, starting yesterday my primary focus is to delight in my children and to make this known to them (Also, Tosha and Claire probably can’t take on any more friends because I’m so neeeeedy—but you can ask). And to calm the fuck down—this is also a priority. Also, thanks to Amy I’m now veering away from the Doestoevsky effect of aspiring to be worthy of my suffering. No. No…no. There is meaning in suffering, and the size and effect of suffering is quite relative in regards to the enduring human, and suffering itself is not my god nor my purpose. How about I start anew as often as my spirit appeals, and I can certainly use this to do so: “Love goes very far beyond the physical person of the beloved. It finds its deepest meaning in his spiritual being, his inner self” (Frankl, Man’s Search for Meaning, 38). And may I be grateful for even the smallest of mercies, sometimes showing up as an ice-cream–smeared smirk on my four year old’s face.

Oh, we went to Playa Bacocho the other night and released baby sea turtles to their…lives? deaths? I’ll say some more words about this soon—still processing. I almost started singing “The Circle of Life” but then I realized I was just dissociating to avoid sobbing on the beach in front of Sylvan and Raines. Until I unwrap this, here are some photos:

Adoration of a chocomilk.
Sylvan showing me around Explora.
climbing on the wall right next to the mats.
Quesadillas y café en La Punta.
Please come sit and drink a bowl of coffee with me.
Happy Birthday from the beach, Aegis!
Of course you can both fit.
AM en la bahía.
Playa Carrizalillo. 1 million steps down (ask Raines) and it’s worth it.
Pelicans waiting for breakfast.
Gato en cama, dedicado a Nathalie.
El chiquito en la escuela.
Seconds of tranquility.
Mickey Mouse is better than a photo of breast cancer? Not really.
The taekwondo class that Raines is never going to, ever again.
Dolphins everywhere.
We saw eight sea turtles!
Dos chulos
Gato de la calle, White Claw.
Who remembers these?
Wine in the dark. Am I the only one?
Confirmed, not a Komodo dragon. Iguanas are cool too.
Mezcal 1
Morning walk view.
Non-normal dinner in La Punta.
Mezcal margarita and Limeade.
Cafecito
Sylvan made his own Zen Zone at Explora.
More than a little bit good.
Holding onto me as we watch the sun set over Zicatela.
Traviesos
Moments before he peed on my lap in the boat.
Scooter, Day 1.
Pre-scooter taxi!
And then a wave came up and soaked me, my book, and all our stuff.
A quieter, slower morning. This hanging plant had me missing Banning.
After surfing in La Punta.
Just like Mr. Misha.
Almost sunset at Carrizalillo.
almost post-sunset at Carrizalillo. I nearly missed it because I kinda got knocked down by a wave or a shark.